Frequently Asked Questions

YES! You can build your own boat!

Flats River Skiff – FRS series boats are designed specifically for the first time builder.  For these boats no special tools or skills are needed.  We have a how-to video series for the FRS-12 as well as other helpful videos on our website HERE and on YouTube HERE.   All FRS models utilize stitch and glue construction so the videos for the FRS-12 are also applicable to the FRS-15.  With these videos you can easily turn your dream of building a boat into a reality!

We recommend the following tools for the FRS series:

  • Drill (corded or cordless 12v minimum)
  • Jig saw to cut out parts
  • Sander, orbital /DA.   40-60 grit for sanding cured epoxy, 120 for wood and 220 for sanding primer.
  • Router, if you have one great.  If not, use the 40-60 grit on the sander to make the scarf
  • A table saw or band saw for cutting down stock (Sometimes suppliers will cut down the wood for you)
  • Hand saw for trimming the foam once cured and cutting stock to length
  • 1” and 1.5” drywall screws with fender washers
  • Clamps are useful, but drywall screws can be used instead
  • Safety glasses, rubber gloves, dust mast, cups and stir sticks for epoxy

Materials list to build each boat are available here:   FRS-12    FRS-15

Core Sound – CS series boats are intended for those with some boat building and/or wood working experience.  With such experience, many tools you already own will serve multiple uses and therefore a comprehensive tool list is not practical.  

However, some items I recommend are:

  • Drill, 18v cordless, an impact driver is great.  Don’t skimp, you will put “high miles” on it 
  • Jig saw, mid-level quality.
  • Sander, orbital /DA.  I like a 5” sander for wood working and then add a 6” foam backer pad with 6” paper for paint work.
  • Router, for cutting radius edges.
  • Table saw or band saw for board stock and plywood.
  • Angle grinder, I love it, I keep finding new uses for this tool every time I build!
  • Power planer, I can do everything with an angle grinder, however some people really like these so I can’t leave it off.
  • 1” and 1.5” drywall screws with fender washers
  • Clamps, hand plane, wood file/rasp, air compressor/blower
  • Safety glasses, rubber gloves, dust mast, cups and stir sticks for epoxy

Materials list to build and glass the hull are available here:   CS-18   CS-21  

These are the two most asked question and rightfully so. 

Flats River Skiff – FRS boats are designed specifically for the first time builder.  We prioritized simplicity without sacrificing aesthetics or function, and optimized build time and materials.  A basic materials list can be found on each page.  Pricing this out for your location will give you the most accurate price.

General estimates of cost and time (labor hours, not including cure times) without engine or electronics.

FRS-12    $800-$1000 & 40-50 hours – Built, painted, and hardware.

FRS-15    $2000-$2500 & 80-100 hours  – Built, painted, and hardware.

 

Core Sound – CS  boats are intended for those with some boat building and/or wood working experience.  These boats are built with a strong back & jig and utilize the cold mold method of construction.

We provide a materials list to build and glass the hull. Pricing this for your location will give you the base price.  Beyond this point you are free to configure, paint, and rig the hull however you chose.  The result is a truly unique one of a kind boat, with a cost and time frame just as unique.

Things to consider are: primer & paint, hardware (cleats, rod holders, etc), engine & rigging, fuel tank, electrical & electronics, and interior features like a console.  Many items can be found for competitive prices online if you invest the time searching.

Some general estimates of cost without engine or electronics to help you get started –

CS-18 with basic finishes: 12k, and as a mini yacht: 18-25k

CS-21 with basic finishes: 15k, and as a mini yacht: 20-30k

Time is equally difficult to estimate as each home build is unique.  An estimate for someone working nights and weekends would be: 5-6 months to build and glass the hull.  Once flipped another 6-7 months to glass the bilge, put in the floor and gunnel cap.  This does not include building a console or any interior items, finish work, or rigging.  Plan another 6-18 months for this depending on how complex the interior and how shiny you want the paint.  If you have built a boat before, these times can be reduced.

We wouldn’t build a boat with anything less and advise you not to either. 

The glue in marine grade plywood is “waterproof”, this means it has been tested and certified to withstand water submersion and wet environments without failure.  The wood species used in marine grade plywood is also highly rot resistant and moisture tolerant.  You can ensure your plywood is marine grade because it will have a BS1088 or equivalent certification.    

Standard plywood uses glue that may be water based and/or not certified for water submersion.  The wood species used most likely has very poor rot resistance as well. 

The goal of using epoxy is to fully encapsulate the wood so that no wood is exposed to water or the elements.  However, with use and time you will inevitably expose the wood to water.  The wood used will be the deciding factor between an easy repair and major rework.

The short answer is…. YES!

Ester resins such as vinylester and polyester are not adhesives, so any bond to wood is superficial.  Ester resins work great in mold boat construction but fail miserably when used with wood or as an adhesive. Epoxy is just as much of an adhesive as it is a resin.  Its ability to bond wood and other boat building substrates is phenomenal. Many mold boat builders even use epoxy to make repairs and join already cured parts together because of its adhesive properties. 

 

ALWAYS READ AND FOLLOW MANUFACTURERS DIRECTIONS AND WARNINGS.  Safety is always the most important thing in boat building.  The comments below are for reference only.

Many agree marine grade epoxy is safe when used properly and with the proper protective gear.  One long term health risk associated with epoxy is called sensitization.  This occurs thru contact with skin and respiratory exposure.  Some people will sensitize easier than others and no one knows how quickly your body will respond.  We recommend using gloves, working in a well ventilated area with a respirator and safety glasses.  Some manufacturers say to always wear a respirator; some say adequate ventilation is sufficient.  There are also different formulations of epoxy, and some claim significantly lower risks of sensitization than others.

Epoxy formulations are a science, thankfully all you need to do is follow the mix ratio of resin and hardener supplied by the manufacturer.  Hand pumps that screw in the top of the container work great.  If you are building a large boat, a dispensing unit is a great investment.  Don’t mix too much as the reaction is exothermic (generates heat) and a large concentration can burn you!  Mixing in repurposed (but clean) plastic food containers is our preferred method.  Stir the mixture thoroughly, but not fast.  You don’t want a mix full of bubbles or for it to splash out!  Large Popsicle/craft sticks work great as stir sticks and are cheap.  Once the resin is fully mixed the color will be fully uniform.  If you see swirls of different colors keep stirring.  It can be applied with a chip brush, foam roller, or poured and squeegeed. 

To make thickened epoxy follow the steps listed above completely before adding fumed silica or another thickening agent.  The addition of any additives prior to full mixture will prevent proper cure.   Start with a small amount of fumed silica and stir it in until any clumps disappear.  Continue to add a little at a time since adding too much can ruin your batch.  The correct consistency for thickened epoxy is best described as being between mayonnaise and peanut butter.  You can use an old shopping/gift card to spread if you are filling holes.  A PVC elbow  is great for making radii in corners (boat builders trick, don’t tell anybody I told you :)).  And a small notched trowel is key for a good glue joint, scarf, or lamination. 

If you are adding a fairing filler, fully mix the epoxy as noted above.  Once fully mixed, add in the fairing filler referencing the manufactures guidelines and stir until all clumps disappear.  (A rough estimate is acceptable for this.) The epoxy will seem marginally thicker, but flow like slime.  This is ok for a horizontal surface, but if your surface has any slope to it, add a little fumed silica to thicken it slightly.  This will reduce runs and make for easier sanding.  We have the best luck applying this mixture with a chip brush due to its consistency.

Here is a video of us mixing epoxy and adding fumed silica to create thickened epoxy.